We went to Malta this past Memorial
Day weekend. While preparing for the trip, we had very limited information on specific things we were looking
for, even off the internet. We didn't want to purchase a $15-20 book on a weekend trip so off we went with whatever little information we obtained. I don't normally go into any trips without strategically planning and putting together an itinerary but the lack of information left us no choice. So as a result, we started our trip slightly rocky and aimless, which could easily whip up "planners" like me into a mode of frustration and belligerence towards my companions. But refusing to be defeated and intentionally seeking beauty in the gnarliest things, we decided to enjoy ourselves and make the most out of our short time there.
So taking note of that whole debacle, I decided to write about our trip in case we return for a rematch, I can avoid the unnecessary hassles we went through and be able to see more. Some of our friends have asked us for tips and recommendations as well, so I decided to put this writing into a blog which they can easily access off the internet whenever they need to. Maybe you can learn a thing or two as well from our
mishaps and adventures to either prevent disasters from happening or to just
simply enhance your experience. So here’s our take on Malta.
LANGUAGE: Most Maltese speak at least two languages:
Maltese and English, but some even speak Italian. The Maltese language is a
beautiful mish-mash of different languages. It sounds Arabic when you hear it, but
written in Roman format. There are words that sound or read similar to Spanish
or Italian as well. This is because Malta has been invaded and ruled by many
different countries and kingdoms in the past.
DRIVING: Driving in Malta is like driving in
London but with the Italian traffic twist. The driver’s seat is on the right-hand side
and the car is driven on the left hand side of the road but the way the drivers plow the through road
though is very similar to the audacity and confidence of Italian drivers.
FOOD: Malta offers an enormous variety of
food from all walks of nationalities. However, as good as it sounds to be able to eat the Asian food you have been craving for, don’t neglect to try the
traditional Maltese food. Having said that, we highly recommend "Ta’ Kris" in Sliema. Reservations may be
required here because they get tend to be booked. They served an amazing Lamb roast
dish called Haruf il-Forn, cooked in herbs, mint, spices and white wine; and “Laham tal-Brodu,” a beef
dish slow cooked for four hours in vegetable broth.
Rabbit is also a delicacy in Malta and if you are a seafood lover, well, you are in the right place! They not only serve fresh and affordable seafood, they also know how to cook it! We are firm believers that you have to try the local food to truly experience the culture.
AIRPORT TRANSFERS: If your hotel doesn’t provide
Airport shuttles, you can either take a taxi, or purchase an Airport Transfer
from the booth inside the Malta International Airport, right before you go out
of the “EUR Schengen” blue gate.
The Airport transfers have a fixed rate depending on the area
where you need to be taken to and how many people are in your group. We stayed in
Sliema so we paid €30 ROUNDTRIP for two adults and one child between the ages of
5-12. They dropped us off our hotel and set the time for our pick up on the day of our departure. Please make sure to KEEP your receipt because that
will be your pick up info.
Both modes of transports have advantages and disadvantages. The taxis
may be slightly more costly, but they take you straight to the airport and you set the time of pick up. The
airport transfer, on the other hand, is a shared ride. So they may pick up
other passengers along the way (passengers who purchased transfers as well).
This is bad if there is traffic and they are running late. Luckily, we checked-in
online ahead of time and picked our seats already. We only needed to drop off
our checked-in luggage so the "less than two-hour" window to check in didn’t
matter to us. But if you don't check in two hours prior, you may be penalized if the
shuttle was running late.
By Bus:
It is €1.50 per person for 5 years old and up. There are bus times posted around the bus
stop poles. Note that Sat-Sun schedules are different and less frequent than
Mon-Fri ones. Plan accordingly.
By Ferry: There are water taxis in Malta.
They usually operate 0700-0000. Each taxi has different pricing depending on
where are you heading to. Please check price accordingly.
BLUE, BLUE AND BLUE. Let’s get something straight. There
are THREE FAMOUS BLUES in Malta; the Blue Grotto, the Blue Lagoon and the Blue
Window. I am going to attempt to provide information as much as I can. I have
labeled the map above with numbers that corresponds to each site I will
mention.
BLUE GROTTO (see #1 on the map): The Blue Grotto is a series of sea caverns on the South side of Malta. Everyday, from sunrise to about 1p.m., this teal to aqua blue color can be witnessed due to the reflection of the sunlight. The color comes from the phosphorescent flora living underwater.
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The largest cave in the Blue Grotto sea cavern series
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How to get there: There are tours and Hop-On Hop-Off buses that include this stop in their routes/packages. But if you want to do it on your own, here's how: take the bus from where you are staying to
Valletta Bus Terminal, then, transfer to Bus #74. The bus number may change
from time to time so make sure you check the right bus number or ask the info
booth. Get off the Panoramic View for the Blue Grotto (make sure to tell your
bus driver ahead of time so he knows you are getting off there). Your bus
ticket from where you got on from your hotel can transfer to Bus 74, just tell the driver you are
transferring and show him your ticket from when you got on the bus. The same ticket can take you back to Valletta IF you get on the bus
within the time frame stamped on your ticket (usually within 2 hours).
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Blue Grotto waters
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How to get back: The bus to get back is just a few
steps uphill from the restroom. The bus numbers and bus times are posted on a
pole. There are also cab drivers who offer services if you are pressed with
time. It may cost between €15-€25 to Mdina or Valletta. IMPORTANT: Please plan
ahead of time because some days, buses are less frequent, especially on
weekends.
Boat Tickets and Hours of Operation: Currently, the boat fare to the Blue Grotto is €8 per adult and €4 per child. During
summer, they operate between 0900-1700; Winter 0900-1530.
Lunch, and Refreshments: There are a couple restaurants, a
few ice cream parlors, cafes and beverage stores, souvenirs, hats and scarves shops around.
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| Inside one of the Blue Grotto caves |
Restrooms: A public
restroom is available on the left hand side of the hill if you are facing bottom
of the hill to purchase tickets. It is across the street from the restaurants
and cafes. Prepare some spare change; they operate by donation only.
Terrain: The ticketing office and the pier
for the boats are at the bottom of the hill past the restaurants and restroom.
You will have to walk downhill after the bus drops you off by the panoramic
view. Once you reach the bottom of the hill, the ticketing office will be on
the left hand side and the pier will be on the right.
Off course, where there is a downhill, guess what’s next?
You’re right! Uphill! It is a steep uphill. We saw groups of older people walk
the first part of the hill so it is not impossible to climb it. The locals have installed
wooden plank stoppers to prevent visitors from slipping. Others pay a euro each
for a golf-cart ride halfway up the hill to get to the parking lot, especially the elderly ones who are not fit for
uphill walking. Please be extra cautious when using strollers. The downhill is
very steep. It can send the strollers rocketing downhill, crashing into the
rock if you accidentally let go of the stroller.
Selfie Note: Take your selfies at the Panoramic
view AS SOON as you get off the bus because you may not get a chance later as
you will be hungry, sweaty and rushing to catch the bus to your next
destination. Trust me. We’ve been there. =)
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| Blue Lagoon, Comino Island, Malta |
BLUE LAGOON (see #2 on
the map): The Blue
Lagoon is a series of beach coves around the island of Comino. Comino is a
small island in between Malta and Gozo. It is a wonderful place perfect for
swimming and snorkeling. A scene from Brad Pitt’s movie “Troy” was shot here. You can also pay boat transfers to a different cove aside from the common beach area if you want more privacy. Sitting on top
of the other side of Comino is Saint Mary’s Tower which represented Chateau
d’If, an Alcatraz-style prison, in the movie adaptation of "The Count of Monte Cristo." The water was still cold in late May when we went, but once we submerged our
entire bodies and started swimming, it was bearable… up until we got out and
caught the breeze =).
How to get there: We took the "Comino Blue Lagoon
Tour" through the Captain Morgan’s Cruise for €20 per person. We paid less for
children but it was through an agency near our hotel. You may be able to haggle
for children pricing.
The tour left Sliema Pier at 10AM and traveled for about two
hours, stopping at a few ports to pick and drop off passengers. It included cold lunch and unlimited drinks (soft drinks, water, wine). Snacks, ice cream, and
slushies are available for purchase at the bar. Along the way, we passed by the
islands dedicated to the shipwreck of the Apostle Paul which changed the
history and faith of the Maltese. (see #4
on the map). Today, it is said that Malta is the most religious country in
all of Europe, having one church for everyday of the year.
Note: If you are taking the Captain
Morgan’s Gozo and Comino Blue Lagoon Tour (€35 per person, no lunch but with
unlimited drinks), you will be taking the same ferry. So pay extra attention to the captain when he speaks through the speaker as the ferry docks in different piers so you won’t miss your stop at Gozo. You will spend two hours in Gozo
and 1 hour in Comino.
What to bring: Towels, reef shoes or reef sandals,
water (even if the cruise has unlimited water, you will be swimming far from
the ferry), snorkel, goggles, small inflatable floatation device for kids,
extra cash for speed boat tours, or boat transfers to another cove for less
crowded swimming.
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One of the seacaverns during our speed boat ride
around Comino island. |
Speed boat ride:
Hands down, our favorite part of the trip! Not for pregnant people, parents with very little babies, or people
who are scared of fast rides. I'll just say if you can't ride a roller coaster, don't get on one of these. I’ll leave it at that!
Terrain: This lagoon is NOT stroller
friendly. There are stairs to get down to the cove. You may also choose to hike
up the hill to view the Saint Mary’s tower better. We changed our kids out of
their swim clothes on top of the hill, away from the crown, with our makeshift change-rooms of towels
and sarongs because there was
virtually no one else there but us.
Restrooms: Sad to say but there are NO restrooms
at the cove. You will have to use the ferry restroom before and after your
Comino visit, which by the time lunch is done, you will have less than 3 hours.
Food and refreshments: There are a few food trucks along
the cove. Kebabs, burgers, hotdogs, paninis, beverage and ice cream are
available for purchase at surprisingly affordable price! The Kebab/Shawarma was
outstanding!
Note: Make sure you allow some time to get
back to the ferry. The most desired seats are at the upper deck. This deck gets
really packed 20-30 minutes prior to departure. It gets very hot in the lower
deck so get a good spot in the upper deck. It may get a bit breezy sitting on
the upper deck so bring a light sweater, wrap, beach cover or dry towel to
break the wind.
BLUE WINDOW (Update: destroyed recently due to a storm) (see #3 on the map): Also called the Azure Window, this beauty is a perfectly
arched limestone formation carved by waves and nature, located Malta’s sister
island, Gozo. This landmark has been featured in the movies "The Count of
Montecristo," "Clash of the Titans" and the TV series, "Game of Thrones. "Although
we didn’t get to swim in this area, there are plenty of places to swim, scuba
dive and snorkel. There are no sandbars though so you will have to climb through rocky areas to get to the water. There is also the Blue Hole right next to this site which divers go gaga for.
How to get there: We took a "Gozo by Bus Tour." The
shuttle picked us up from our respective hotels and drove us to the Cirkewwa
Pier (see #7 in map). We took the
ferry to Gozo, then our tour guide/driver waited for us at the ferry landing in
Gozo. You can also purchase transfer from your hotel to Cirkewwa Pier, take the
ferry, then take the Hop-On Hop-Off Bus in Gozo, and get off the stop for the
Azure Window in Dwerja. Buses are also available from the Gozo Ferry Pier Mgarr, but they are much less frequent. Nonetheless, you can take Bus 301 or 302 from Mgarr Pier to Rabat Victoria, the capital city of Gozo. Then from Rabat, catch the 311 bus. You can click on one of the links at the bottom of this blog to view the Malta bus schedules.
Ferry Fare between
Malta and Gozo: The
Gozitan government provides free ferry from Malta to Gozo to draw tourists in.
But coming back you have to pay a minimal price of €4.50 coming per person.
We didn’t take the HOHO bus tour because we chose the cruise
and bus tours I mentioned above. If we had an extra day, we would have loved to take both these tours.
Here’s the info we gathered from weighing in our options; in the island of Malta alone, there are two routes: the North
Route and the South Route. The HOHO cost €20 per 1 day adult ticket and €12 per
1 child ticket (ages 5-14yrs old). The 2-day adult ticket costs €37 and €20 for
kids. This ONLY APPLIES IN MALTA. You can use the same HOHO ticket to transfer
from one route to another within the same day. If you go through the tours
without getting off, you will be able to finish the South route in 2 hours and
the North route in 3 hours. The only stop the two routes connect is in the
Valletta Water Terminus stop.
Gozo has their own HOHO which lasts about 2 ½ hour if you go
through the tour without getting off. The cost is €18 per adult, €10 per child.
They also offer HOHO+transport from to/from ferry which costs €26 per adult and
€18 per child. The Gozo HOHO stops at the Blue Window and the Goza Capital
City, Victoria.
GOZITAN PRODUCTS: Gozo is known for her lace and
embroidery products, as well as the delicious goat cheese called Gbejna. They
also produce filigree jewels. We rarely eat at McDonald’s. But when we were in Valletta, we were drawn in
by their McFtira, a burger with their famous goat cheese from Gozo. If you are a goat cheese burger fan, I will tell you it was delish.
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| Sliema at midnight |
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| The View from the Upper Barrakka Gardens. |
If you are single or a couple with no children to worry about during the trip,
Saint Julians is very lively and much more of a party area. We were a family with a school-aged child so
we stayed in Sliema (see #6 on the map)
which was much quieter but still had plenty of food options. Sliema is bustling with athletes running and
biking up and down the strand early in the morning, ferrymen calling passengers aboard, tourists gawking at the beautiful view or looking lost, reading the bus
stop signs to figure out if they are at the right place. Valletta is very pricey hotelwise, but is easy access to
everything. The bus terminals are there and it is quite a lovely place to spend your leisurely hours at. There are PLENTY of restaurants to dine
in and historic places to visit. Our favorite spot there was the Upper
Barrakka gardens overlooking a lovely panoramic view. It was such a delight to
have coffee there, read a book or just sit on one of the benches, sea breeze
blowing your hair as you bask in the beauty of Malta. We spent our last few hours in Malta there before he flew out that night: my daughter immensely enjoyed running around the garden and veiwing the three cities in front of us through a telescope while I sipped my coffee and enjoy the fresh air as my husband took pictures of our daughter, the cannons and the landscape.
Popeye’s Village. This theme-park style
attraction was the site where a scenes from the movie "I'm Popeye The Sailorman" were filmed in the
80’s. It is quite far from many tourist attractions but if you have an extra
day to spare or you are a huge Popeye fan, there are transports you can
purchase which will pick you up from where you are staying, take you to
Popeye’s village and return you back to your hotel. See #8 on the map above for the location.
Mdina and Rabat. Mdina is a silent city with some 200
inhabitants of noble blood. It used to be Malta’s capital. This beautiful fortress is
where some scenes from "The Count of Montecristo" and "Game of Thrones" were filmed. Rabat, on the other hand, is the adjacent larger old
town of Mdina. The name is Arabic for Suburb. Rabat is home to St Paul’s Grotto
which is said to have been the Apostle Paul’s quarters when he was shipwrecked
in Malta and stayed there for three months. See #5 on the map.
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St Paul's Cathedral, Mdina.
A scene from the movie, "Count of Montecristo" was shot here.
It is said that this Cathedral now stands on the site of Publius'
home where Paul healed Publius' father after Paul was
shipwrecked on the Maltese coast.
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The Fishing Village. Very early every Sunday morning until
about half past noon, the village of Marsaxlokk hosts a fish market which
offers a variety of Mediterranean fish species freshly caught early that
morning. There are plenty of fish restaurants if you are a fish lover. See #9 on the map.
The Malta National Aquarium. We didn't have a chance to visit this aquarium. But based on what our friends have said, they thouroughly enjoyed this place. So I have included it here and the link as well, so when we go back next time, I will remember the places we missed and plan for them.
Malta is a wonderful country with warm and welcoming people. Three days seemed to be too short for us during summer time so we aim to go back someday and hit the ones we didn't get a chance to see.
I hope you visit it too! If you're already planning but don't know where to begin, I hope this article gave you a better understanding of what Malta has
to offer. Now that you have some idea of what to do in Malta, let the planning
begin!
Links and Sources:
When we were in Blue Lagoon, Comino in Malta, we took a
speed boat ride to the seacaverns around the island. It was Harmony's first
time on a speed boat ride. It felt like we were on a roller coaster. We had a
blast! We were reluctant at first to spend extra money on that ride but after
experiencing it, the ride became, hands-down, the favorite part of our weekend!
